The city of Prohibitions
Before I came to Dubai I learnt, and accepted it as inevitability, that premarital sex, showing affection in public and drinking alcohol without a special drinking license was prohibited. When I came here, I learn that all of the above are actually quite acceptable in practice, only not in theory. Dubai is a morally liberal place that as far as the practice of (im)moral concepts is concerned. It cannot endorse such principles in theory, because it needs to keep its cultural integrity as a Muslim country.
Then, however, I learnt about the other kind of prohibitions. Things that are allowed neither in theory, nor in practice. To list the two that particularly bothered me: (1) Skype, (2) Flickr. What's interesting, however, is that YouTube is allowed (both in theory and in practice).
Skype. The basic means of survival for international pilgrims. The means of communication for separated families who cannot afford costly international phones. If you have ever lived abroad, you know what "Skype" means. It's proximity, it's comfort, it's love. 80% of Dubai population have lived abroad - they are expatriates. With the ban that entered into life on April 16, all VoIP communication became illegal. Thou shall not use your computer to call the phones all over the globe. Thou shall instead use the expensive services of the UAE communication monopole Etisalat. If to lessen the pain of being far away from your dear ones you thought of looking at their pictures on Flickr, you will be disappointed. This website is blocked too. Such is the law of the United Arab Emirates.
Why does the economically flourishing, modern, economically liberal (so the fame goes) Dubai would decide to block such two vital services? About Flickr, the situation seems easier. It is said that some images there qualify as pornography (though I personally never noticed any such images). It follows that the Islamic government must protect the morals of its Islamic citizens and prohibit such an evil service. Ban(g)-Ban(g) and it's banned. There is, however, a heated debate so as to why is Skype prohibited in Dubai. There are two main theories, one pointing to political reasons, another one pointing to economic ones.
Political theory claims that the UAE government likes to monitor the content of all information exchanges done through means of telecommunication, and Internet communication is practically impossible to screen for content. The economic theory presents the loss of revenue by a national company Etisalat to Internet telephony, such as Skype that led to the ban of this service in the UAE. It is not, however, an "either/or" situation. It is most likely that both factors came to play why making the decision about blocking Skype.
Now I just wanted to make a personal testimony on what the effects of this ban are. I am devastated. I cannot talk to my friends. I will be basically off-line for my journalism job, unable to conduct interviews over the phone. I am deeply disappointed, because I did not expect Dubai to be a place where such a ban would be enforced. And I am in deep disbelief, because I thought that in a business-friendly, modern and liberal place like Dubai the deep economic implications and financial losses for local businesses of such a decision would be identified and understood.
Nonetheless. I am patient. I am understanding. I try to look beyond the cultural paradigm of the Western culture where I was brought up and seek to understand those different then me. Trust me, however, than in cases where the differences of another culture strike right at my heart it is not an easy task...
Comments
When in Rome, do as the Romans do.
And this is where some people (not me, I'm just as frustrated) will tell you :
1. if you don't like it here, you're welcome to go. don't let the door hit you on the way out (a very typical response on the nation's gossip rag for the intellectually challenged, 7Days)
2. if communication is so important, make the call on Etisalat. (Or the new telecoms provider, du -- they have some pretty decent IDD discounts, so I'm told)
Then again, there is a rational argument to this: Some people would (rightly so) argue that a bottle of mineral water in Europe costs 4 times more than a bottle of water in Dubai, yet no one really complains.
Dubai in itself, as you have pointed out, has much to offer. For most expatriates, especially those who are single or live alone, the higher pay scales here allow them to save more than they would be able to back home, even though the cost of living may be higher in some areas.
As a developing city-state, Dubai's authorities (in Dubai, there is a distinction between authorities/bureaucracy and government) risk falling into the trap of implementing new policies that are not properly thought-out or implemented.
One such example, the bomb of the decade, is the new Salik system that they have implemented. In a nutshell, Salik is an electronic toll system designed with the intention to reduce traffic congestion using an affordability filter (i.e. "can you afford to travel via Sheikh Zayed Road? AED4 per pass under each of the 2 gantries, up to a maximum of AED24 per day"). Nothing surprising, since many developed nations have some toll system or other applied to highways, right? Here's where it gets better:
The Road & Transport Authority (RTA) implemented this system without:
1. giving anyone a way to recharge their electronic tags. On first application, each account has a credit of AED50. However, despite repeated attempts to recharge one's at various petrol stations, few have actually been able to successfully recharge their account. The RTA, however, have managed to get their SMS notification system working, which effectively reminds you that you're liable for fines as you have insufficient credit, despite your having carried out the recharge days ago. One shall discover, at the end of the year, that one has accumulated several thousand dirhams in Salik fines, and the onus is on oneself to be able to provide proof of recharge on a receipt printed on thermal printer (you know, the sort that self-erases/degrades over time)
2. providing alternative routes with sufficient traffic capacity. The RTA believes that Emirates Road is sufficient, yet through some oversight forgets the amount of road works taking place along that freeway. Oh, wait, there's also Jumeriah Beach Road and Al Wasl Road, right? Someone forgot to mention that these are 2 lane carriageways, and having thousands of cars using that stretch as a bypass route just does not work. People who paid hefty rents to live in that exclusive neighbourhood are now finding themselves living in the middle of Tokyo/Beijing/NYC-type traffic congestions. Oh joy.
But I digress. Dubai remains a great place to stay for those who can afford it, and hell for people who cannot. It's not Skype, nor Flickr. It's the way the authorities come up with random policies that will help Dubai get into the Top 3 Most Poorly Thought Out Cities. I love the place, the people, the culture, and at some point, I'm just going to get numb to the randomness, and just shut up and go with the programme. Maybe that's what the authorities want....
Dont stop believing. Hold on to that feeling.
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